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Outdoor Action Guide to
High Altitude: Acclimatization and Illnesses
by Rick Curtis, Director, Outdoor Action Program - Princeton University


Traveling at high altitude can be hazardous. The information provided here is
designed for educational use only and is not a substitute for specific training or
experience. Princeton University and the author assume no liability for any individual's
use of or reliance upon any material contained or referenced herein. This paper is
prepared to provide basic information about altitude illnesses for the lay person. Medical
research on high altitude illnesses is always expanding our knowledge of the causes and
treatment. When going to altitude it is your responsibility to learn the latest
information. The material contained in this article may not be the most current.
Copyright © 1995 Rick Curtis, Outdoor Action Program, Princeton University.

High altitude-we all enjoy that tremendous view from a high summit, but there are risks
in going to high altitude, and it's important to understand these risks. Here is a classic
scenario for developing a high altitude illness. You fly from New York City to a Denver at
5,000 feet (1,525 meters). That afternoon you rent a car and drive up to the trailhead at
8,000 feet (2,438 meters). You hike up to your first camp at 9,000 feet (2,745 meters).
The next day you hike up to 10,500 feet (3,048 meters). You begin to have a severe
headache and feel nauseous and weak. If your condition worsens, you may begin to have
difficulty hiking. Scenarios like this are not uncommon, so it's essential that you
understand the physiological effects of high altitude.

Altitude is defined on the following scale High (8,000 - 12,000 feet
[2,438 - 3,658 meters]), Very High (12,000 - 18,000 feet [3,658 - 5,487 meters]), and
Extremely High (18,000+ feet [5,500+ meters]). Since few people have been to such
altitudes, it is hard to know who may be affected. There are no specific factors
such as age, sex, or physical condition that correlate with susceptibility to altitude
sickness. Some people get it and some people don't, and some people are more susceptible
than others. Most people can go up to 8,000 feet (2,438 meters) with minimal effect. If
you haven't been to high altitude before, it's important to be cautious. If you have been
at that altitude before with no problem, you can probably return to that altitude without
problems as long as you are properly acclimatized.
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The concentration of oxygen at sea level is about 21% and the barometric pressure
averages 760 mmHg. As altitude increases, the concentration remains the same but the
number of oxygen molecules per breath is reduced. At 12,000 feet (3,658 meters) the
barometric pressure is only 483 mmHg, so there are roughly 40% fewer oxygen molecules per
breath. In order to properly oxygenate the body, your breathing rate (even while at rest)
has to increase. This extra ventilation increases the oxygen content in the blood, but not
to sea level concentrations. Since the amount of oxygen required for activity is the same,
the body must adjust to having less oxygen. In addition, for reasons not entirely
understood, high altitude and lower air pressure causes fluid to leak from the capillaries
which can cause fluid build-up in both the lungs and the brain. Continuing to higher
altitudes without proper acclimatization can lead to potentially serious, even
life-threatening illnesses.
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The major cause of altitude illnesses is going too high too fast. Given time, your body
can adapt to the decrease in oxygen molecules at a specific altitude. This process is
known as acclimatization and generally takes 1-3 days at that altitude. For example, if
you hike to 10,000 feet (3,048 meters), and spend several days at that altitude, your body
acclimatizes to 10,000 feet (3,048 meters). If you climb to 12,000 feet (3,658 meters),
your body has to acclimatize once again. A number of changes take place in the body to
allow it to operate with decreased oxygen.
Prevention of altitude illnesses falls into two categories, proper acclimatization and
preventive medications. Below are a few basic guidelines for proper acclimatization.
 | If possible, don't fly or drive to high altitude. Start below 10,000 feet (3,048 meters)
and walk up. |
 | If you do fly or drive, do not over-exert yourself or move higher for the first 24
hours. |
 | If you go above 10,000 feet (3,048 meters), only increase your altitude by 1,000 feet
(305 meters) per day and for every 3,000 feet (915 meters) of elevation gained, take a
rest day. |
 | "Climb High and sleep low." This is the maxim used by climbers. You can climb
more than 1,000 feet (305 meters) in a day as long as you come back down and sleep at a
lower altitude. |
 | If you begin to show symptoms of moderate altitude illness, don't go higher until
symptoms decrease ("Don't go up until symptoms go down"). |
 | If symptoms increase, go down, down, down! |
 | Keep in mind that different people will acclimatize at different rates. Make sure all of
your party is properly acclimatized before going higher. |
 | Stay properly hydrated. Acclimatization is often accompanied by fluid loss, so you need
to drink lots of fluids to remain properly hydrated (at least 3-4 quarts per day). Urine
output should be copious and clear. |
 | Take it easy; don't over-exert yourself when you first get up to altitude. Light
activity during the day is better than sleeping because respiration decreases during
sleep, exacerbating the symptoms. |
 | Avoid tobacco and alcohol and other depressant drugs including, barbiturates,
tranquilizers, and sleeping pills. These depressants further decrease the respiratory
drive during sleep resulting in a worsening of the symptoms. |
 | Eat a high carbohydrate diet (more than 70% of your calories from carbohydrates) while
at altitude. |
 | The acclimatization process is inhibited by dehydration, over-exertion, and alcohol and
other depressant drugs. Back to top

|
 | Diamox (Acetazolamide) allows you to breathe faster so that you metabolize more
oxygen, thereby minimizing the symptoms caused by poor oxygenation. This is especially
helpful at night when respiratory drive is decreased. Since it takes a while for Diamox to
have an effect, it is advisable to start taking it 24 hours before you go to altitude and
continue for at least five days at higher altitude. The recommendation of the Himalayan
Rescue Association Medical Clinic is 125 mg. twice a day (morning and night). (The
standard dose was 250 mg., but their research showed no difference for most people with
the lower dose, although some individuals may need 250 mg.) Possible side effects include
tingling of the lips and finger tips, blurring of vision, and alteration of taste. These
side effects may be reduced with the 125 mg. dose. Side effects subside when the drug is
stopped. Contact your physician for a prescription. Since Diamox is a sulfonamide drug,
people who are allergic to sulfa drugs should not take Diamox. Diamox has also been known
to cause severe allergic reactions to people with no previous history of Diamox or sulfa
allergies. Frank Hubbell of SOLO recommends a trial course of the drug before going to a
remote location where a severe allergic reaction could prove difficult to treat. |
 | Dexamethasone (a steroid) is a prescription drug that decreases brain and other
swelling reversing the effects of AMS. Dosage is typically 4 mg twice a day for a few days
starting with the ascent. This prevents most symptoms of altitude illness. It should be
used with caution and only on the advice of a physician because of possible serious side
effects. It may be combined with Diamox. No other medications have been proven valuable
for preventing AMS. Back to top
|

AMS is common at high altitudes. At elevations over 10,000 feet (3,048 meters), 75% of
people will have mild symptoms. The occurrence of AMS is dependent upon the elevation, the
rate of ascent, and individual susceptibility. Many people will experience mild AMS during
the acclimatization process. Symptoms usually start 12-24 hours after arrival at altitude
and begin to decrease in severity about the third day. The symptoms of Mild AMS are
headache, dizziness, fatigue, shortness of breath, loss of appetite, nausea, disturbed
sleep, and a general feeling of malaise. Symptoms tend to be worse at night and when
respiratory drive is decreased. Mild AMS does not interfere with normal activity
and symptoms generally subside within 2-4 days as the body acclimatizes. As long as
symptoms are mild, and only a nuisance, ascent can continue at a moderate rate. When
hiking, it is essential that you communicate any symptoms of illness immediately to others
on your trip. AMS is considered to be a neurological problem caused by changes in the
central nervous system. It is basically a mild form of High Altitude Cerebral Edema (see
below).
Basic Treatment of AMS
The only cure is either acclimatization or descent. Symptoms of Mild AMS can be
treated with pain medications for headache and Diamox. Both help to reduce the severity of
the symptoms, but remember, reducing the symptoms is not curing the problem. Diamox allows
you to breathe faster so that you metabolize more oxygen, thereby minimizing the symptoms
caused by poor oxygenation. This is especially helpful at night when respiratory drive is
decreased. Since it takes a while for Diamox to have an effect, it is advisable to start
taking it 24 hours before you go to altitude and continue for at least five days at higher
altitude. The recommendation of the Himalayan Rescue Association Medical Clinic is 125 mg.
twice a day (morning and night). (The standard dose was 250 mg., but their research showed
no difference for most people with the lower dose, although some individuals may
need 250 mg.) Possible side effects include tingling of the lips and finger tips, blurring
of vision, and alteration of taste. These side effects may be reduced with the 125 mg.
dose. Side effects subside when the drug is stopped. Contact your physician for a
prescription. Since Diamox is a sulfonamide drug, people who are allergic to sulfa drugs
should not take Diamox. Diamox has also been known to cause severe
allergic reactions to people with no previous history of Diamox or sulfa allergies.
Frank Hubbell of SOLO in New Hampshire recommends a trial course of the drug before
going to a remote location where a severe allergic reaction could prove difficult to
treat.
Moderate AMS
Moderate AMS includes severe headache that is not relieved by medication,
nausea and vomiting, increasing weakness and fatigue, shortness of breath, and decreased
coordination (ataxia). Normal activity is difficult, although the person may still be able
to walk on their own. At this stage, only advanced medications or descent can reverse the
problem. Descending even a few hundred feet (70-100 meters) may help and definite
improvement will be seen in descents of 1,000-2,000 feet (305-610 meters). Twenty-four
hours at the lower altitude will result in significant improvements. The person should
remain at lower altitude until symptoms have subsided (up to 3 days). At this point, the
person has become acclimatized to that altitude and can begin ascending again. The best
test for moderate AMS is to have the person "walk a straight line" heel to toe.
Just like a sobriety test, a person with ataxia will be unable to walk a straight line.
This is a clear indication that immediate descent is required. It is
important to get the person to descend before the ataxia reaches the point
where they cannot walk on their own (which would necessitate a litter evacuation).
Severe AMS
Severe AMS presents as an increase in the severity of the aforementioned symptoms,
including shortness of breath at rest, inability to walk, decreasing mental
status, and fluid buildup in the lungs. Severe AMS requires immediate
descent to lower altitudes (2,000 - 4,000 feet [610-1,220 meters]).
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There are two other severe forms of altitude illness, High Altitude Cerebral Edema
(HACE) and High Altitude Pulmonary Edema (HAPE). Both of these happen less frequently,
especially to those who are properly acclimatized. When they do occur, it is usually with
people going too high too fast or going very high and staying there. The lack of oxygen
results in leakage of fluid through the capillary walls into either the lungs or the
brain.
HAPE results from fluid buildup in the lungs. The fluid in the lungs prevents effective
oxygen exchange. As the condition becomes more severe, the level of oxygen in the
bloodstream decreases, and this can lead to cyanosis, impaired cerebral function, and
death. Symptoms include shortness of breath even at rest, "tightness in the
chest," marked fatigue, a feeling of impending suffocation at night, weakness, and a
persistent productive cough bringing up white, watery, or frothy fluid. Confusion, and
irrational behavior are signs that insufficient oxygen is reaching the brain. One of the
methods for testing yourself for HAPE is to check your recovery time after exertion. If
your heart and breathing rates normally slow down in X seconds after exercise, but at
altitude your recovery time is much greater, it may mean fluid is building up in the
lungs. In cases of HAPE, immediate descent is a necessary life-saving
measure (2,000 - 4,000 feet [610-1,220 meters]). Anyone suffering from HAPE must
be evacuated to a medical facility for proper follow-up treatment.
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HACE is the result of swelling of brain tissue from fluid leakage. Symptoms can include
headache, loss of coordination (ataxia), weakness, and decreasing levels of consciousness
including, disorientation, loss of memory, hallucinations, psychotic behavior, and coma.
It generally occurs after a week or more at high altitude. Severe instances can lead to
death if not treated quickly. Immediate descent is a necessary life-saving
measure (2,000 - 4,000 feet [610-1,220 meters]). There are some medications that may be
prescribed for treatment in the field, but these require that you have proper training in
their use. Anyone suffering from HACE must be evacuated to a medical
facility for proper follow-up treatment.
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Sources:
 | Mountain Sickness, Peter Hackett, The Mountaineers, Seattle, 1980. |
 | High Altitude Illness, Frank Hubble, Wilderness Medicine Newsletter, March/April 1995. |
 | The Use of Diamox in the Prevention of Acute Mountain Sickness, Frank Hubble, Wilderness
Medicine Newsletter, March/April 1995. |
 | The Outward Bound Wilderness First Aid Handbook, J. Isaac and P. Goth, Lyons &
Burford, New York, 1991. |
 | Medicine for Mountaineering, Fourth Edition, James Wilkerson, Editor, The Mountaineers,
Seattle, 1992. |
 | |
Additional Reading:
 | Altitude Illness Prevention & Treatment, Steven Bezruchka, The Mountaineers,
Seattle, 1994. |
 | Going Higher, Charles Houston, Little Brown, 1987. |
 | High Altitude Sickness and Wellness, Charles Houston, ICS Books, 1995. |
 | High Altitude Medicine and Physiology, Ward Milledge, West, Chapman and Hall, New York,
1995. |

This article is written by Rick Curtis, Director, Outdoor Action Program. This material
may be freely distributed for nonprofit educational use. However, if included in
publications, written or electronic, attributions must be made to the author. Commercial
use of this material is prohibited without express written permission from the author.
Copyright © 1998 Rick Curtis, Outdoor Action Program, Princeton University.
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